Tuesday, 31 October 2006

KULTI & NATHULA PASS


If you are in the service Industry , Be it Advertising or Immigration- Understanding the nature of work is one; your soft skills should to be in the right place to keep your clients happy. Imagine managing both at the same time and you know what I am into everyday. Obviously , running between two firms did wear me out quite a bit and it was about time to take a break when a good friend of ours invited us to his family function in West Bengal.

I have never travelled to the North East and here was a chance waiting in the wings, being an ardent admirer of the Himalayan jungles & the visual spectacle it had to offer - I quickly lapped it up

Our flight to Calcutta was a mundane affair. But the city is a feast really- my impressions about Calcutta was that of a dark - dying breed with inmates who still are nostalgic & wouldn’t let anything change. What unfolded was completely different - the city simply had its old charms and seems to have seamlessly blended with the new one with panache. New constructions all o
ver the place and hoardings of deepalika padukone adorned the imperious skyline.

What you cannot take is the humidity - even at 8 in the evening.

We were to take a train to aasonsol about 4.5 hours from the city; Indian train journeys are never easy if you are travelling without a confirmed ticket. The dhoon express with its usual heavy load uncharacteristically chugged along. Being an Indian and feeling completely alien in your own country is not new to me - the language just added to the fa
n fair.
An hour later - A 50-rupee note to the TT confirmed our seats and we reached aasonsol in the midnight. Our next two days were spent in kulti - a little known town close to aasonsol - this place bridged the states - West Bengal & the newly formed Jharkand [erstwhile bihar].

It is said that the British built the first steel factory of India here [little wonder cos the states bordering kulti are rich in minerals, add to that - a very favourable climate to suit the British niceties]. What remains today speaks so much about socialism and its jest for equality. The factory is a ghost town and is now being encroached by people of all walks of life; the government’s efforts to change anything but this would be a welcome sight…
Kulti is also home to the Maithon Dam – India’s first multi purpose dam built by Nehru. Bengal’s sorrow was indeed tamed by this mighty reservoir. The dam was built in 1958 and is 15,712 ft long and 165 ft. high. Built over a period of 8 years, this dam is the first of its kind to house an underground Hydel power generator. The Hydel power generator is housed about 100 feet below the ground level and water is piped, 80 ft from the surface to rotate the armatures. The power generator is an awesome sight to behold – three armatures generate about 60000 MW every day; the safety measures are world class with each and every detail being attended to – you gotta see it to believe it! The Maithon dam today stands as a fantastic model of Nehru’s vision of a self-sufficient India

From Kulti, we took a 12 hour-long road journey to Siliguri, the last point from where you could either head to Darjeeling or Gangtok; You could either hire a taxi / or hop along half a dozen enthusiasts in a Sumo / Qualis to be driven to either of these destinations.

Our drive to reach Gangtok was nothing short of breathtaking. The Teesta River – a paradise for river rafters curled her way amongst the beautiful Himalayan mountains, intermittent showers gave way to a fresh aroma of the flora that encircled us and the higher we went – Mother Nature covered herself with her never ending white veil – I could only hold my breath and wait for our forthcoming encounter with the Himalayan ensemble cast.

We reached Gangtok in 4.5 hours, the city is well maintained given its geography- – food and water are easily available and you could find a comfortable place to rest from 600 – 1000 Rs, depending on your needs. Our next day began at 7 in the morning - destination – the famous nathula pass via Changu Lake

Yup, if you think you’ve heard it on the news channels – you’re spot on. The Nathula Pass was recently opened to facilitate trade between India & China. Situated at an altitude 0f approximately 14,900 feet, the nathula pass was traditionally used by traders from India and Tibet.

Our expectations to reach the pass in style were soon grounded – First the rains and then the white misty veil just covered everything from our sight. Our first stop at Changu Lake bought us some respite from the icy showers and the mist. You could rent winter jackets for as little as 20 Rs. here and return them on your way back.

Nathula pass until July 16th has been under dispute for the last 44 years between India & china. The pass is open to tourists on specific days only and is heavily guarded by the Border security force. At –2 degrees and icy cold winds and rain, I am forced to think about the rationale of fighting for such an inhospitable place, whatever the reasons – I could only complain to mother nature about her unpredictable self. Our trip to the Nathula Pass could have so much enjoyable if only She had given way a bit. On my way back, I just wished if the next day could be a little better.

Day 2 – Local Sight Seeing
Gangtok is truly a mix of two ancient civilizations and it was indeed ruled by a monarch before it became a part of India.The Tibetan museum offers a rich perspective about the religion and culture prevalent during ancient times.A flower and crafts exhibition run by the Government offers very little scope to relish the true spectacle of the Himalayan flora.

The unpredictable nature of the weather could only add to our worries as our mobiles kept buzzing every other minute. Frantic clients wanting us back did not help the cause either. Our real experience was waiting to unfold on our way back The Rumtek Monastery – abode of the Buddha is a spectacle to behold. Numerous Buddhist monks court the lord in his blissful state as they keep chanting the mantras. The Rumtek monastery is also known to be as one of the Dharma Chakra centre and envisions spreading the teachings of Lord Buddha to the world. This was the only place where Mother Nature played a true host to us.

Our return trip to Siliguri saw the worst rains ever, Visibility was reduced to almost a few metres – the downpour wouldn’t stop until we reached the foothills. Thanx to the heavy downpours, River Teesta was in spate and it was a scary sight indeed. Flash floods am told are very common in this part of the world and the people living here have to come to accept mother nature’s unpredictable behaviour. Nehru’s vision could be seen bearing fruit here, River teesta was indeed being tamed to generate Hydel power and work was on full swing come rain or shine.

Thanx to our never - say - die customers – we had to unwillingly advance our plans to get back to work. On my way back home – A silent recollection of the events that unfolded the last two days was never fulfilling.

Some how, I had missed the fantastic and the breathtaking view of Mount Kanchandzonga [am told it can be seen even from the city]. The river rafting experience was sorely missed and so was the 2-day trek to the foothills of the world’s third highest mountain.

The only bird I saw was the yellow-breasted Green finch in its plumage. A tete-a- tete with a jackal on our way back home was the only fauna I could recollect.

DO NOT visit the Himalayas during the monsoon season. It’s a complete waste of time considering the beauty and experience you’re gonna miss at the end of the day. The best time to visit is between January and March when the peaks are snow covered and view is crystal clear.


Guys – Never ever carry your mobile if on a vacation. Its such a pain to have a client call you and bring you back to the concrete jungle when all you want is to be lost in the wilderness – Your experience is never quite complete!!!

A few days later after my return home, The Hindu ,a regional newspaper, featured an article on the trek to the foothills of Mount Kanchandzonga. Talk about rubbing salt into my wounds - I could only vow to myself that I WILL some how be there to complete my experience with her royal highness – subtle yet sublime, pristine yet risky – Our Beautiful Mother Nature.

1 comment:

  1. Ive been there too.. its a great place to be... i was cycling through Sikkim for 6 days and boy what a ride it was.. we started from Gangtok.. and ended our trip in Darjeeling 6 days later... Rumtek monastery with its rhododendrons is really a peaceful place..

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